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CHESS THOUGHTS
OPENING
The chief strategic objective in the opening is the most
effective and harmonious development of all the pieces.
DON'T move a piece twice in the opening.
DON'T exchange a piece that is developed for one that is not developed.
DON'T exchange without good reason.
DON'T block the path of development of your pieces.
DON'T block either center pawn.
1. What is the center? The four squares in the center of the board, e4,
d4, e5
& d5 ("Little Center") and the sixteen central squares ("Enlarged Center")
2. What is the value of the center? It is the region of greatest mobility.
3. What is meant by control of the center? The ability to place pieces on vital
squares without having them captured.
4. How do we get control of the center? .....The very basis of the chess.
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EIGHTH RULE: Always
try to maintain at least one pawn in the center.
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NINTH RULE: Do not
sacrifice without clear and adequate reason.
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TENTH:
Many players are too prone to
attack before firmly establishing what positional advantages are inherent
in their position.
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ELEVENTH: The
disadvantage of pawn weaknesses is not so much the pawn themselves but the
passive positioning of the pieces, which result in order to defend them.
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TWELFTH: Exchanges
usually ease cramped positions.
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THIRTEENTH:
'Object-Lesson' in 'Maroczy Bind' position, which arises when white, has
pawns at c4 & e4 and black a pawn at d6. White's space advantage was
achieved at the cost of dark-squared weaknesses and failure to defend
results in loss.
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FOURTEENTH: When you
have a Q-side pawn majority, assuming it is mobile and not under attack
from your opponent's pieces, you can play for the ending and exchange
pieces with confidence.
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FIFTEENTH: Technique
of a K-side attack involves the opening of files into the enemy position.
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SIXTEENTH: Modern
Strategy - Final break through is not made until all the
pieces are on the best possible squares.
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SEVENTEENTH: Play well
positionally and the tactical fruits will come.
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EIGHTEENTH: Seek
combination chances based upon your opponent's king position or any
unguarded pieces he may have. In the opening white's problem is to
preserve his initial superiority whereas black's problem is to secure
equality. Therefore, white attacks while black defends.
CENTER CONTROL
Avoid over-hasty attacks
before completing development. Take sufficient
care when calculating.
When the advantage is of an enduring type, Le., weak
enemy pawns and squares,
you can afford to strengthen your position to the
maximum before
beginning the final assault. When the opponent's forces
are diverted to the
defense of a weakness, the attacker can then make decisive
thrusts on the other
side of the board.
Many games are lost by
tactical blunders. Many would be saved if the
player took the
PRECAUTION, before making EVERY move, of looking around
the board for any
tactical possibilities present (a) in the position as it stands, and
(b) in the position,
which will occur after he has moved.
COMBINATIONS
Books: duMonfs 'The
Basis of Combination in Chess' and Reinfeld's
'1001
Chess Combinations'
If you have few
opportunities for reading, try in your own games to practice
looking briefly around
each move for combination chances based upon your
opponents king's
position or any unguarded pieces he may have.
THE ART OF DEFENSE
The art of defense is
one of the most difficult in chess; not only because of
the intrinsic care and
avoidance of error required in defensive positions, but also,
because,
psychologically, the inexperienced defender is liable to PANIC, LOSE
HEART, or BECOME
INPATIENT.
ATTACKING PLAY
It is necessary to make
every move count when a sacrificial attack is in
progress. If a king is
in the center and the central files can be opened, all sorts of
combinations become
possible. Masters do not reject cramped positions as such;
but, generally speaking,
an active game, a pawn down is much preferable to a
position with level
material where you are bound to the defense of a positional
weakness.
Play well positionally and the tactical fruits will come.
THE ENDING
In rook and pawn endings
the most important principal of all is to keep your rook
active.
POSITIONAL PLAY
In the Ruy Lopez,
white's ON usually aims to reach d5 or f5.
The "ALTERNATION
PRINCIPAL" - When your opponents minor pieces are
driven into a defensive
position use your superior mobility to transfer the attack to the
other wing.
In the type of pawn
formation which often arises from the KI type of opening
where black plays ...
c5, white's weakness lies in the fact that the base of his pawn
chain at c4 is
vulnerable to attack, while black's base at e7 is much more easily
defended.
Boleshavsky's variation
of the Sicilian is nowadays one of the most popular of
all, for experience has
shown that black's backward d-pawn involves no difficulties. By
inducing white to play
a4, black can make it possible for himself to post his a-knight on
this strong square where
it supports the coming ... d5; and; ties down the white queen
to defense.
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Avoid early adventure. Develop minor pieces (knights and
Bishops) before major pieces (Queen and Rooks).
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Avoid giving useless checks.
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Assume that your opponent will find the right moves, and
don't play for crude traps except in desperation.
Concentrate on applying
sound general principles and you will rarely go wrong.
develop rapidly, castle
early, centralize your pieces. The idea is not to trick your opponent but
to keep on strengthening your position.
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According to Bobby Fischer, four ingredients are essential to
success at chess:
1. Concentrate:
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Just one slip can cost the game.
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Chess requires total concentration.
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Many players use only a fraction of their energy.
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Keep your mind completely on the game.
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Play to win.
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Nobody's interested in excuses when you lose.
2. Think ahead:
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Distrust your first instincts in selecting a move.
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Sit on your hands.
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To avoid disaster, each time your opponent moves, STOP and
ask yourself: 'What's the threat?" Don't move until you understand
the position.
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Remember, it's absolutely essential for your development
as a chess player to adhere to the rule of "touch move" - once you
touch a piece you must move it.
Give no quarter and ask for none.
3. Learn from your
losses Record your games, including the offhand ones, and
study them later to
try to find your mistakes - if you don't already know what they
were. You are not
likely to lose two games the same way, and you will also retain
a permanent record of
your progress.
4. Study
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Play over recent games of masters in books and magazines.
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Combine this study with actual play against strong
opponents.
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Spend as much time
at the game as you can.
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THE PLAYER WHO CONTROLS MORE SPACE ENJOYS SUPERIOR
MOBILITY FOR HIS PIECES.
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When pieces occupy the center, they radiate greater
mobility.
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Just keep bringing your pieces out and have patience.
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The player who mobilizes all his forces faster than the
opponent secures an advantage in time and space.
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The basic
principle of force is decisive when all other things are equal.
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THE PLAYER WHO
IS AHEAD IN MATERIAL SHOULD TRADE AS MANY PIECES AS POSSIBLE.
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THE PLAYER WHO IS BEHIND SHOULD TRY TO AVOID EXCHANGES.
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It is essential at all times not to fall behind in
material.
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NOTES: BASIC CHESS ENDINGS
by Reuben Fine
David McKay Co [(1941), Reprint 6/67]
FIFTEEN RULES FOR THE ENDGAME
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Doubled, isolated and blockaded pawns are weak: AVOID
THEM!
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Passed pawns should be advanced as rapidly as possible.
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If you are one (1) or two (2) pawns ahead, exchange pieces
not pawns.
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If you are one (1) or two (2) pawns behind, exchange pawns
not pieces.
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If you have an advantage DO NOT leave all the pawns on one
side.
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If you are one pawn ahead, in 99 cases out of 100 the game
is drawn, if, there are pawns on only one side of the board.
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The easiest endings to win are pawn endings.
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The easiest endings to draw are those with bishops of
opposite colors.
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The king is a strong piece: USE IT!
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DO NOT place your pawns on the color of your bishop.
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Bishops are better than knights in all cases except
blocked pawn positions.
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Two bishops versus bishop and knight constitute a tangible
advantage.
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Passed pawns should be blockaded by the king: The only
piece, which is not harmed by watching a pawn is the knight.
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A rook on the 7th is sufficient compensation for a pawn.
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Rooks belong BEHIND passed pawns.
CONCLUSIONS AND SUMMARY
There are three
points, which are so fundamental that they must be always born in
mind:
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Without pawns one must be at least a rook ahead in order
to be able to mate. The only exception to this which holds in all cases
are that the double exchange wins and that a queen cannot defend
successfully against four (4) minor pieces.
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Where one is two or more pawns ahead the win is routine.
By this we mean that a straightforward advance of the pawns will net
considerable material gain, usually at least a piece. With a piece to the
good one can then capture more pawns, then more pieces and finally mate.
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The theory of the ending proper is concerned to a large
extent with the conversion of an advantage of one pawn into a win. The
basic principle is that one pawn wins only because it can be
used to capture more important material.
Straightforward advance will not do the trick (as it will with two pawns).
The chief devices to be used in the winning process are forcing entry with
the king, keeping the opponent busy on both sides (outside passed pawns)
and simplification.
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PCA's Selected
Principles from the ABC's of Chess
by Bruce Pandolfini
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Be aggressive. but play soundly. Don't take unnecessary
chances.
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Make sure every move has a purpose.
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Don't ignore your opponent's moves. Don't play your moves
as if they are independent of your opponent's responses.
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Play for the
initiative. If you already have it, maintain it. If you don't seize it.
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Cut your losses. If you must lose material, lose as little
as possible. If one of your pieces is trapped, try to sell ifs life
dearly. Look for desperadoes (opportunities to gain some material and/or
inflict damage.
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If you blunder, don't give up fighting. Compose yourself
to avoid additional mistakes. Stay in the game. After getting the
advantage, your opponent may relax and let you escape. If this fails, you
can always resign.
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Never play an unsound move; hoping your opponent will
overlook your threat and the correct reply, unless you have a hopeless
position. In that case, you have little to lose.
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Rely on your own powers. If you can't see the point of
your opponent's move, assume there isn't any. Don't play with fear. It's
not as much fun ..
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Don't sacrifice without good cause.
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When you can't determine whether to accept or decline
sacrifice, accept it. Either you'll be right or wrong, and learn
something.
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Attack in numbers. Don't rely on just one or two pieces.
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Look for double attacks, and try to play moves with
multiple points.
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Don't make careless pawn moves. In the opening, move as
few pawns as necessary to complete your development.
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Try to develop your bishops before blocking them in by
moving a center pawn just one square, unless circumstances require
otherwise or leave you no choice.
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Develop your pieces quickly, preferably toward the center
(especially knights, which often are "grim" on the rim.
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Don't waste time or moves. Try to develop a new piece on
each turn. Don't move a piece twice in the opening without good reason.
Amass your forces for concerted purpose.
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Develop during exchanges. Avoid exchanges that lose time
or build your opponent's game. Don't solve his problems for him.
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To exploit an advantage in development, attack. Hold back,
and the advantage might pass to your opponent.
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Do not bring out your queen early, unless the natural course of
play necessitates it.
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Develop rooks to open files, or files likely to open. If
such placements are not possible are not possible or advantageous,
consider a file-opening pawn advance. Look to transfer rooks desirously
from one wing to the other.
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Prepare to castle early, especially for king safety and to
connect the rooks. Don't let your king get caught in the center. Be leery
of opening the center with your king still in it. Don't castle if it
places your king in even greater danger.
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Try to prevent your opponent's king from castling. Keep it
trapped in the center, particularly in open positions.
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After castling, don't move the pawns in front of your king
without specific reason.
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Don't capture pinned pieces until you can benefit from
doing so. If possible, try to attack them again, especially with pawns.
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Look for tactics along lines controlled by your bishops,
especially when the enemy bishops are missing or out of position.
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Try to avoid early exchanges of bishops for knights,
unless such trades are clearly to your advantage.
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To strengthen control of a file, double your major pieces
(rooks and/or queen) on it. If you can, force the enemy rooks out of
position.
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ln cases where you have only one bishop, try to improve
its scope by placing your pawns on squares of the opposite color. This
also insures that squares of both colors can be guarded.
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Trade when ahead in material or when under attack, unless
you have a sound reason for doing otherwise. Avoid trades when behind in
material or when attacking.
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29. Choose a plan and stay with it. Change it only if you
should or must. But don't be ridiculously flexible.
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If cramped, free your game by exchanging material. If your
opponent is cramped, deter him from making freeing advances and trades.
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Trade bad minor pieces for good ones. Avoid situations
that could force you to surrender active pieces for inactive ones.
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Study the games of the greats (Garry Kasparov, Vishy Anand,
et al)
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Play as often as you can. Have fun.
Top
Chess Lessons
by GM Jeremy Silman
Chess life 9/95 p. 24
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If you develop
your pieces and control the center in the opening, then nothing too
horrible will happen to you. However, if you just move pawns, or if you
move the same guys over and over again, then you are begging for some kind
of awful retribution.
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Bad moves don't
always have to be punished directly. Often you can just develop and
improve your position and good things will happen with no effort on your
part. However, if the opponent keeps making lemons, then you eventually
become duty-bound to look hard for a way to crucify the guy.
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It often takes
only one error to lose a game at the highest levels. To lose quickly takes
several mistakes.
Chess life 12/95 p.19
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1. Don't
mindlessly develop your pieces in the opening. Sometimes more pressing
matters need to be taken care of before you get all your men out.
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Fix enemy
weaknesses before you attack them.
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Tying the enemy
pieces down to the defense of their pawns places him in a passive
situation in which he can undertake no aggressive action. You can torture
him to your heart's content free from the worry that he will be able to
start some sort counter-offense.
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Even in must win
situations the slow piling on of pressure can prove to be a very efficient
method of play.
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Make sure that
each and every one of your pieces gets to participate in the battle.
Chess life 1/96 p. 14
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look for
opportunities to exchange inactive pieces for your opponents active ones.
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Keep your eyes
open for possibilities that allow you to trade a weak pawn for a less
vulnerable version in the enemy camp.
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It is well worth
spending a tempo or two to kill enemy counter play.
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The side with less
territory should exchange as many pieces as possible. This gives his other
pieces more room to move about.
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If your opponent
is without counter play, don't hesitate to spend several tempi to improve
the locations of one or a herd of them.
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Place a rook(s) on
an open file if you can take pennanent possession of it, or if you want to
trade rooks on it or if you want to prevent the enemy from taking
possession of it (which usually leads to an exchange of rooks).
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An open file is
only useful if there is a way to penetrate down it with your rook or
queen. lack of penetration points make an open file all glitter but no
substance.
Chess Life 2/96
p.
13
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Don't
exchange pieces that have better long-term prospects than the enemy
versions have.
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Be careful not to
win material at the expense of your position. If you are in control, stay
that way and avoid any Greek gifts.
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Use your pawns to
chase enemy knights off of advanced support points.
Chess Life 4/96
p.
35
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The goal of the
opening is not to develop your pieces; it's to develop them to squares
where your forces all work together to accomplish a mutual goal.
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Quick development
is extremely important in open positions (e.g. no center pawns blocking
the activity of the pieces).
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The more
pawn-locked a center is, the less important development becomes.
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Be aware of the
basic rules of strategy and the reasons for their existence.
However, never follow them blindly!
Chess Life 9/96
p.
13
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Think about
squares from the first move on.
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Every time a
square is left unguarded, it becomes a potential home for an enemy piece.
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A weak square may
not be a serious problem if an enemy piece can't reach it.
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Fischer once said.
"You've got to give squares to get squares." This leads us to believe that
all squares are not created equal. If you can gain access to a square by
giving up one of your own, don't hesitate to do so if you think that your
acquisition has more to do with the plans and problems that both sides are
facing.
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Never push a pawn
without seriously judging its long range effects on the squares it is
supposed to control
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